We’ll never tire of poring over our maps of France in search of new treasures just outside Lyon. We continue our tour of the Grand Dukes’ sites, and after visiting the priory of Tournus and that of Ambronay, we now head to another in the Roanne region. Newton needed an apple to understand and demonstrate gravity; we’ll settle for the whole tree to quench our thirst for curiosity!
Pommiers-en-Forez, a small town with a rich history
Here we are in the far north of the Forez Plain (don’t pronounce the “z” if you want to sound like a local!) in a small town that nonetheless boasts a wealth of treasures. Indeed, an imposing 11th-century Benedictine priory takes center stage without overshadowing the rest of the village and its surroundings.The old Aix Bridge, for example, dating from the 15th century, offers a breathtaking view of the entire village and transports us to a truly chivalrous setting. It wouldn’t be at all surprising to run into Robin Hood and Godefroy de Montmirail returning from a hunt there. Joking aside, we learn that Kings Charles VII and Francis I stayed here during their reigns—which says it all…
The priory stands as a true testament to our history through the ages. Its church, cloister, and other rooms invite us on a one-of-a-kind journey through time. Although the earliest signs of construction date back to the 9th century, the site expanded primarily during the 11th and 12th centuries to become one of the most important in the region.
The site is worth exploring from floor to ceiling because, even though the cloister, chapter house, and refectory are impressive, don’t miss the chance to see the imposing roof trusses—irrefutable proof of the craftsmanship of the era. A very large part of the priory is designated as a historic monument, a signof its exceptional heritage.
The Roannais: a region with 1,001 treasures
Perhaps less sought after from Lyon than the Beaujolais, the Roannais is nonetheless a wonderful region where many historical and natural treasures can be easily discovered from the capital of Gaul.
Among the many sites in the area, two in particular caught our attention. The first is just a stone’s throw from Pommiers-en-Forez and is called Saint-Jean-Saint-Maurice-sur-Loire. This small town boasts as much richness and heritage as there are vowels in its name. Perched on a promontory overlooking the Loire, the little village is an open-air museum, featuring, among other things, a 12th-century keep.
The second is the village of Ambierle, a charming little town that also hides one of the region’s most beautiful abbeys. Just like the priory of Pommiers, the one in Ambierle joined the Cluniac Order as early as the 10th century. Its splendid church was included on the list of the first buildings in France to be designated as historic monuments as early as 1840.
