A few kilometers northwest of Roanne, this small town full of character nestles on a promontory where vineyards, as much as the old stone buildings, are part of the scenery. Just like the Romanesque cloisters of Salles-Arbuissonnas or Tournus in the Mâconnais, it seems our ancestors had already grasped the adage: after the effort (of building one’s home) comes the reward (of drinking a fine wine). The grand tour of monuments to discover around Lyon continues, and this time, we’re heading to Ambierle!
Ambierle, the pearl of the Roannais
The charming town of Ambierle offers a picture-perfect setting. A medieval town surrounded by vineyards in a rolling landscape? In our collective imagination, it’s hard to get more French than that. Even though a visit to the priory is Ambierle’s biggest attraction, it would be a shame to stop there. The village has its own museum dedicated to rural life of yesteryear, as well as its own events, such as its weekend marketand its own comic book festival, Bulles de caractère, in September.
For hikers, Ambierle lies at the crossroads of the Via Sancti Martini and the Camino de Santiago. There is also a roughly ten-kilometer hike (Les Servajeans) starting from the village that takes you through the surrounding vineyards. So, just like in Innimond, you can enjoy the area and stretch your legs all in the same day.
Ambierle Abbey, the spearhead of the Cluniac Order
The priory was incorporated into the Order of Cluny in 938 and, over the centuries, underwent several transformations. For example, we learn that it was fully fortified in the 14th century for protection during the Hundred Years’ War, and that part of the convent was completely rebuilt just before the Revolution.
Just like the Church of Saint-Nizier in Lyon or the Abbey of Saint-Philibert in Tournus, the church was included in the first list of historic monuments as early as 1840, which speaks to the universal value of the site. With the slender proportions of a mini-cathedral, a vaulted ceiling height of nearly 16 meters, and exceptional stained-glass windows, the site is truly unique. Its glazed-tile roof, typical of the Burgundy region, is indirectly reminiscent of the Hospices de Beaune, and its splendid 15th-century altarpiece of the magnificent Abbey of Baume-les-Messieurs in the Jura. Even before the age of hyperconnectivity, everything already seemed to be connected!
Tournus, Salles-Arbuissonnas, Baume-les-Messieurs… these places with roots stretching back a thousand years are part of the Cluniac heritage. It’s worth noting that for several centuries, Cluny was the most important abbey in the West, with a network of thousands upon thousands of sites across Europe, from Portugal to Italy, including Spain and even England. We learn that, in total, the priory of Ambierle was under the authority of Cluny Abbey for over 850 years…
